Founded in Antwerp in 2017, Lies Mertens is an independent leather-goods label that fuses sculptural objects with everyday use, through craftsmanship, material research and long-term vision. The designs balance form, material and function, with particular attention to the versatile ways in which objects are being worn and used.
Each design grows from a close dialogue with the material, allowing its qualities to guide its form. Working exclusively with European leather, the hides are handpicked for their structure, character and aging qualities. Selecting materials that become richer over time, a good design is one that gets better with use.
Collections evolve, rather than replacing one another. New designs build on existing work and are developed through a repeated process of testing, adjusting and refinement. Over time, the focus evolved from architectural or geometrical constructions towards softer, more intuitive creations linked to nature, in which volume is defined through folds and patterns.
Versatility is part of the design philosophy. Bags adapt to different moments and ways of wearing, with straps that can be adjusted, hidden or removed, and compartments integrated into the construction rather than being added. Function is not approached as a feature, but as an integral part of the form.
Every design is developed in-house. Afterwards, the finished prototypes are send to one of our two small-scale and family-run ateliers, one in Northern Italy, run by Franco, and another Belgian run atelier in Tunisia, led by Stefaan & Gaetane. By using traceable byproduct leather of European suppliers, the label supports a circular approach: using what already exists, reducing waste, and prioritizing durable, high-quality materials. Alongside leather, the label engages in material research through collaborations with designers, artists and innovative companies, including explorations into grape-based materials and mycelium. These projects exist as research trajectories alongside the core collection.