Charcoal & Shells
As part of Antwerp Fashion Festival 2026, Lies Mertens presents Charcoal & Shells, a new capsule within the ongoing Shell collection research project. For this new capsule, the visual language of this research is connected to the earthy materiality of leather and wood, which are confronted with the transformative, almost destructive force of fire. At the centre of the presentation is Ensis III, a new edition of the Ensis bag where its handle undergoes a controlled burning process.
As part of Antwerp Fashion Festival 2026, Lies Mertens presents Charcoal & Shells, a new capsule within the ongoing Shell Collection research project. Centered around nature, erosion, layering, and the organic forms of shells, the collection continues the exploration of sculptural bag-making through movement, pleating, and material experimentation. With the Oyster bag as its first design, the bags are not constructed according to a classic pattern; instead, their volume emerges through movement and delicate pleating.
For this new capsule, the visual language of this research is connected to the earthy materiality of leather and wood, which in turn are confronted with the transformative, almost destructive force of fire. Within this field of tension, a newly developed leather is introduced: “Charcoal,” in which Ensis III also finds its form and meaning.
Through material research, craftsmanship, and experimentation, Charcoal & Shells offers an insight into the evolving universe of the Shell Collection.
The Icons
Stories behind the bag
